|
The nineteenth century in France was one of the most creative periods
for the design and manufacture of jewellery. A myriad of workshops some
now famed, others forgotten mirrored the changing fashions of French society
from the magnificence of the first Empire to the naturalism of Art Nouveau
in their work. French Jewellery of the Nineteenth Century at Wartski was
the first exhibition to concentrate on jewels of this period. It contained
a number of Napoleonic pieces, including the ruby and diamond set laurel
spray by the Court Jeweller Lemoine for the Empress Josephine, an acrostic
bracelet given by Napoleon to his sister Elisa Bonaparte, Princesse Bacciochi
and a dazzling diamond set rose brooch belonging to the Princesse Mathilde.
Napoleon revived the fashion for cameos and jewels of archaeological inspiration
became popular. Later pieces were inspired by Egyptian sources (exemplified
by Baugrand's brooch depicting Isis), as well as the Gothic and Renaissance
seen in Boucheron's Fortuna within an architectural canopy seated on a
circular diamond wheel. The introduction of new manufacturing techniques
and materials were also represented, including the increased use of cut
steel in the 1820's, the incorporation of aluminium in the 1850's, and
the widespread use of more modest materials such as ivory, tortoiseshell
and horn inspired by Oriental works in the 1870's. Falize's cloisonné
enamelled jewellery depicting motifs drawn from Hokusai's prints, together
with Gaillard's representations of insects and botanical subjects demonstrate
the overwhelming influence of Japanese art at the time. Its incorporation
of elements drawn from nature heralded French Art Nouveau, many pieces
of which dating from the late 1890's by Gautrait, Fouquet, Vever and Lalique
were included to complete the display.
Catalogues for sale on behalf of Befrienders International for £5 plus postage, please contact Wartski to order. Back |