A pair of onyx and diamond set platinum
cufflinks by Cartier,

pave set with rose diamonds and mounted with onyx to the top
and ends, contained in their original silk and velvet lined tooled
red leather pouchette.

Cartier, Paris, circa 1920,
numbered 4595.

These cufflinks are contemporary with the first series of 'peau de panthere' or panther skin jewels designed by Charles Jacqueau for Cartier Paris. The makers mark although rubbed is possibly that of the Renault workshop. They made the similar 'brooche poignee' now in the Cartier collection and illustrated in Cartier 1900-1939' (London, 1997) by Judy Rudoe, number 171. Cartier first used the panther skin motif in 1914 but it was not described as such until 1917. The motif reflected the contemporary idea of a Lady-Panther as a sexual predator and symbol of demonic-eroticism. Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1978) artistic adviser to Cartier who was involved with Louis Cartier was nicknamed 'Panther'